Correction of Blemishes

There are several different opinions on when to apply a corrector. I prefer to apply it first for more pronounced blemishes and after foundation for minor corrections like pimples or under-eye shadows. If you need to hide a large or prominent blemish or spot it’s best to apply using a product in solid form prior to applying foundation and adjust with more after, if necessary. Make sure that you powder it well. If you have a tendency towards red cheeks or have broken veins again use small amounts of concealer to carefully blend them away (more advice on this below). In all cases you will find you get much better results applying the product with a small brush rather than using your fingers. If you are worried about shadows or tiredness marks under the eyes then a liquid corrector with a light diffuser element is ideal.

A light diffuser has little particles of reflective material in it and is very useful for disguising minor blemishes, light shadows and crows feet at the corner of eyes. There are several good ones on the market: Boots No 7 comes as a brush which is great for blending, L’Oreal’s & The Body Shop’s Colourings are also good. The best one of the lot is undoubtedly Chanel’s ‘ Touche Eclat Instant Highlighter (2.5ml). Technically, light diffusers are not really true concealers; they reflect light back from problem areas minimizing their appearance, so do be careful not to over use them or you will look odd.

How do I cover up red or blotchy cheeks?"

This is a problem that many of us suffer from. My cheeks often looked flushed or have blotchy red marks that are sometimes hard to cover with foundation on its' own. This is because the pigment of the red marks is much denser and therefore darker, making a good cover-up a little bit harder to achieve. What I strongly advise against is the use of a green or lilac concealer that comes as a stick (many of them look like lipsticks). This is because although they will cover up the red marks, they will give your skin a 'chalky' appearance, which is virtually impossible to disguise with foundation. I am going to talk about two different types of camouflage for red cheeks. The first one is for situations where you are fairly close to your audience (also a useful guide for every day make-up) the other one is for performances on a stage or where you are much further away from your audience.

Recommended Products: There are some very good colour-correctors on the market these days that will cover redness without being heavy in appearance. The best types are those that come as a liquid or gel. My favourites are; MAC's Select Cover-up and Shiseido's excellent Colour Control Stick which also gives a great finish on its' own.

Close to the audience. Apply your moisturiser and either allow it to sink in for a few minutes, or blot to remove any excess. Then put a little of the colour corrector liquid or gel in the palm of your hand and apply it in small amounts over the area you need to disguise. Blend out the edges so that there isn't an obvious demarcation line between the area covered and the rest of your face. Use the smallest amount of corrector possible, and use a finger and a gentle patting action to apply it. Allow it to dry and then add foundation. Once your foundation has set, you can add a very thin layer of corrector on top if needed. Build up the colour in very small, thinly applied layers to get the most natural finish. Once you have achieved the coverage you need make sure that you powder carefully to set it all. (See above for advice on applying powder). Be prepared to practice doing this several times until you get the hang of it. Don't try it for the first time the night of your performance! Depending on your skin tone you will probably be better off avoiding blushers in very pink or red tones. Those that come in peach tones (with a yellow undertone) give you a lift of colour without making the redness of your cheeks pop back into view. Be careful not to over-correct the problem too. Knowing that the problem is there doesn't necessarily mean that other people can see it, once you have applied a corrector. Ask a friend whose judgment you can trust to give you an honest opinion of what they can see.

Performing on a stage. Being further away from your audience allows you to use a heavier coverage to disguise blotches or blemishes. I regularly use a wet to dry foundation for this purpose, as the coverage is much denser, reducing the impact of the blotches. If you are concerned that the marks are still visible get someone to check by walking about 15 feet or more away and then asking them to tell you what they can see. Again building the cover up slowly in thin layers and finish off with a generous amount of powder to give a good set.

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