Foundation

Choosing your Foundation. Most modern foundations are designed for specific skin types within each range and most, unless for greasy skin types have a moisturizing element built in. If, like me, your skin is sensitive or dry then an additional application of a light moisturizer can be useful to help even out the skin surface. Avoid applying foundation directly after moisturizing as this can make it hard to get an even finish. To find the right shade of foundation for your skin dab a small amount on either your jaw line or forehead with your finger, if it disappears it's the right shade. Use two side by side if you are not sure which one is right and where possible go outside into natural light to view the results. If one shade is only slightly visible this maybe useful for stage performances when you will need a little more colour to balance out the effect of the stronger lighting.

There are several brands on the market which are designed for longer wear and reduce the problems of foundation rubbing off when you touch it. Max Factor, L’Oreal, Revlon and Maybeline all offer good ones at very affordable prices. The top of the range ones like Chanel, Lancôme, Stila, MAC, and Laura Mercier, although more expensive, give an excellent finish. Mature skins look wonderful with a light-diffusing product; most of the main brands offer at least one of these in their range, but they are only suitable for performances near to the audience where a pleasant 'fresh-faced' look is okay. If you are further away it can give the impression that you sweating or perspiring heavily - not a good idea on any age skin! (See Q&A below)

One of the best of the newer products to come onto the market is that of the 'colour sensitive' foundation. These foundations adapt to suit your skin tone when applied. They often look much darker or lighter in the bottle, which can be off-putting, but the results are really surprising when applied to the face. These types of foundation are excellent for taking out the guesswork when choosing the correct shade for your skin. They are ideal for performances where you are close to your audience. Boots, Revlon and Max Factor all have similar products of this type. I would recommend something with a little more coverage for performances on a stage though.

I product that I use and love is BeneFit's Dr Feelgood - it has an instant matte effect that can be applied either over the top of your foundation on its' own. I've found that it also has a great effect if it's applied over selected areas before foundation.

Applying Foundations. There are several different methods of applying foundation depending on the type you are using. Liquids often work better if warmed up slightly by putting a small amount of the back your hand, or if it's very runny, in your palm. You may need to shake a foundation first to ensure that the product hasn't separated in its container.

Safety Note: Always discard any foundation after 3/4 months, no matter how good it still looks in its' container. Bacteria from contact with the air and your fingers or applicators build up and can give you a nasty reaction or rash. Discard immediately anything that smells strange or has discoloured

Apply the foundation in small dots on to your face before blending. It’s best to work on small areas at a time starting near the eyes and then working down the face, filling in the forehead last. Blend down slightly past the jaw line to avoid looking like you are wearing a mask. To get the best look I usually start off using my fingers and then finish off with a small slightly damp sponge. If you are using a solid stick foundation, apply it direct to the face in ‘stripes’ along the cheekbones, the forehead and the chin. These foundations often blend better with a damp sponge – but do be careful not to get the sponge too wet. There are also a few foundations that come in a 'wet or dry' application method. Applied dry they will give you a matte cover and remove the need for powdering to set it. Applying with a damp sponge will give a heavier coverage that's ideal for stage performances, but it might be useful to add a little powder after application.

Update (Jan 2007) during the past few months I have been converted to the use of a foundation brush. It gives fabulous results - a lovely even finish that allows better blending and a more natural finish!

If you are very pale you might consider using a very light bronzing powder on your neck and shoulder area to reduce the contrast between your face and the exposed area down to where your costume starts. A particularly good idea if your costume is low cut. If you apply this after putting on your costume be sure to protect it with tissues or a cover up.

Setting your foundation. When you have applied your foundation you will need to apply plenty of powder – a translucent one is best. Use a velour puff and press the powder gently on, this will give you a matte look for longer. Only use a brush to sweep off any excess powder. If you are using cream eye shadows or blusher you should powder after you have applied them to prevent creasing, running or fading. Some foundations are now available in a ‘cream-to-powder’ finish, which means you can skip the translucent powder stage, but it’s still a good idea to have some in your kit to powder down any excess shine in between numbers.

"Why is a 'matte look' so important for dancers?"

As mentioned above regarding 'light diffusers' anything that has a shine to it can give the appearance of a sweaty or greasy look. Although a light glow may look okay up close, as you get further away it really looks very unglamorous as it can give the impression that you are having to put a lot of effort into your dancing! This looks even worse in photographs or videos. A matte look will reduce the amount of shine on your face and removes the problem of a 'sweaty' look. That said, I think that a little bit of sparkle or glitter dust, sparingly applied can look nice. The important thng is not to use a gel-based product as this will make you look shiny rather than sparkly. There are many companies that do lovely colours in a variety of sparkle dusts, just be careful about using them on or near your eyes, particularly if you wear contact lenses.

Currently a more fresh 'dewy' look is popular and many foundations now come without the need for a powder to set them, whilst still maintaining a even finish. I don't think there is anything wrong with the fresher, dewy look for performances where you are closer to the audience, but it's essential for stage performances.